Nemo 2.0 ROV Design Plans

February 13, 2010 zippyjr 7 comments

Here is the latest design for my current ROV. I have gone through several ROV designs and this is the best so far. The design allows to make adjustment to the over all structure I used PVC, epoxy putty (very useful stuff!) and 1/4 Plexiglas. PVC ROV

I have a few more modifications to do, the computer interface and the interface software to write. As I start the next leg of the project I will post more details and explanations of the project as well as the components to interface the ROV with my laptop.

Here is the Google Sketch Up file. The photos below are made with using x-ray edge. As you can tell from the actual ROV, I have made some modifications during the build.

smallROV3.skp

Top View

Side View

#1 | Written by bob about 14 years ago. Reply

the only thing missing is somewhere on the top front, the following: “NCC-1701″
#2 | Written by PVC Bending about 13 years ago. Reply

This is freakin awesome. I need to get down and actually try something like this. I have all this PVC and some cool tools, I just need to make the time, now.
- #3 | Written by zippyjr about 13 years ago. Reply
  
  If you do make a PVC ROV or if you have any question about the design let me know. I’ve been through about 20 designs, Nemo 2.0 is fairly streamed lined and works well, Nemo 3.0 will have more power, a better PC interface and I hope to have more accessories to grab and store things and navigation. I found that it’s really hard to navigate in deeper water when you can no longer see the ROV.
#4 | Written by Chucker71 about 13 years ago. Reply

zippyjr is there anyway to get a parts list? more of the motors and propellers then the pvc. My son became certified diver his year with the boy scouts. I would like to build one so when he dives I can see what he sees.
- #5 | Written by zippyjr about 13 years ago. Reply
  
  Sure, this is a general list. If you need a more detailed list let me know.
  
  PVC:
  Body – 4 in sch 40
  Body front and rear – I think they are called knockouts. Get the ones that have the bolt holes drilled in them. The back as a cover that bolts on with stainless steel bolts. The front has the lens which is 1/4 plexiglass. That is bolted, epoxied and is not removable. You can get the epoxy from Lowes plumping department. That seems to work good, or the plastic epoxy from Home Depot. That seems to last longer but is not as strong.
  
  Floatation – 1 in sch 40
  
  Connections – all 1/2 in sch 40
  
  Wire harness – 1 in compression fitting, this will allow you to unplug the unit or change the wire harness to meet depth needs. Longer the harness the more power you need.
  
  Motor housing – I think they are 1 1/2 to 2 in reducers
  ——————————-
  
  Motors:
  I used 500 gph attwood bilge pumps. These are the same pump cartridge that I used.
  Attwood Cartridge Repl. Tsunami T500
  
  They are a little different shape but should work just the same. I have tested my pumps to 50 ft without any issue. If you want to go deeper you drill a hole in the body and fill it with oil. There are four pumps, two up/down and two left/right. I used brass tubing to connect the props to the pump shaft.
  
  Props:
  I have a couple of different props. You can use RC plane pusher prop, they are big, so you will need to cut them down. I also found boat props that fit/work much better (shown in pic). I found them on ebay in Hong Kong. It took 5 weeks to get them. So if you go that route I would order them now and get a few extra. I lost one prop in 40 ft and had to change to the pusher props to go find the lost prop. That took all day…
  
  Wiring:
  This is a big issue. I use cat-5 network cable and double them up. I need 4 pairs to drive the motors. Each pair consist will use 4 wires I solder one of each colors from each cable. So brown to brown, blue to blue and so on. Then pair the colors up brown negative and brown/white positive. I found that a single cable losses to much power due to the thin wire. Also add little pieces of foam to make the cable neutral buoyant so it does not drag as much on the ROV.
  
  Camera:
  I have a high resolution security camera that has auto adjust focus and light. But what ever camera you choose built the ROV around it as tight as possible.
  
  I think that should get you started if I missed anything let me know.
  Good Luck and keep me posted on your progress.
#6 | Written by calla leeuwner about 12 years ago. Reply

I am tring to build an rov but cn not find thrusters or buildge pums that have been presure tested. Mi aim is to be able to dive to at least 30m(50 feet). Can you direct me to a shop or pursen that can help me.

Regards

CALLA (Gansbaai South Africa)
- #7 | Written by zippyjr about 12 years ago. Reply
  
  Hello Calla,
  
  You can get them from Amazon in the US here is the link
  Johnson Pump Cartridge Bilge Pump
  
  Depending on the size of your ROV, you can choose to have more trust, but that will require more battery power. I have tested the 500 gph/1900 lph Johnson Pumps to 30m and never had any issues. If you have problems in deeper water you can drill a small hole in the side of the cartage and fill it with oil, just make sure you get all the air out the of the cartage. Seal it up and you should be good for at least 60m.

ROV Project

Nemo 2.0 ROV Design Plans

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